Air Jordan 5 Origins: A Sneaker That Took Flight

Picking up the baton once again in 1990, Tinker Hatfield was tasked with creating the fifth model in the Jordan series; the Air Jordan 5. While the two previous silhouettes under the Jordan moniker were fairly similar in their looks, this one differs somewhat and famously features design cues taken from World War II fighter jets. We’re taking a look at what makes the AJ5 unique, from its looks to defining moments in the sneaker’s history.

When it comes to characteristics, the Air Jordan 5 broke new ground in several ways. It was the first in the lineage to feature a clear rubber outsole, giving it a distinct edge over its predecessors. That icy sole, combined with the model’s aggressive lines, quickly made it a firm favourite in NYC and on the West Coast, especially within the emerging hip-hop and b-boy scenes. It also marked the debut of a reflective tongue and moulded ankle padding, both functional upgrades that made it one of the most comfortable Air Jordans of its era. The fighter jet inspiration is perhaps most evident in the ‘shark teeth’ on the midsole, while visible Air units and webbing helped keep the shoe lightweight and performance-ready.

Like many of the classic Jordan silhouettes, the 5 has played its part in some absolutely iconic moments over the years. In the year it debuted, the Air Jordan 5 ‘Fire Red’ carried the GOAT during his legendary 69 points scored against the Cleveland Cavaliers, and the silhouette achieved further celebrity status as the shoe of choice for Will Smith’s ‘Fresh Prince of Bel Air’, making countless appearances throughout the first series of the hit sit-com. The Beaverton brand even released a laceless, tongue exposed ‘Fresh Prince’ edition in 2013 and a follow-up ‘Grape’ in 2018 to honour Smith’s Philly styling of the 5s on screen. 

In streetwear circles, the AJ5’s influence remains strong, frequently spotted on foot of rappers, athletes and fashion-forward creatives. Its status as both a performance shoe and cultural staple continues to evolve, making it a go-to not just for retro aficionados but for new-gen collectors. It’s a winning combination of style, comfort and versatility, we think. 

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