There’s never been more hype—and more lies—around footwear than there is today. Brands love to toss around terms like “handmade” and “heritage”, all while selling you shoes that fall apart after a few wears. Spotting the signs of low-quality shoes is crucial if you don’t want to waste your money. Let’s break down five of the most common red flags that tell you a shoe is all branding and no substance.
Signs of low-quality shoes
1. Excessive Toe Spring
One of the first signs of low-quality shoes is excessive toe spring—that unnatural upward curve in the toe box. It’s usually a symptom of poor design and over-elongated lasts. A proper shoe should follow the natural contour of your foot. If your shoes look like they belong in a cartoon, they probably weren’t made with care.
2. Disproportionate Pattern Design
Good shoes have balanced proportions. Bad ones? Not so much. Whether it’s a vamp that’s way too short or derby flaps that overlap like a sandwich, disproportionate designs scream low effort. One of the clearest signs of low-quality shoes is when they just look off. Trust your gut—it’s usually right.
3. Overuse of “Handmade” or “Handcrafted”
Genuine craftsmanship doesn’t need a label. Many factory-made shoes slap “handmade” on their insoles purely for marketing. Just because a human touched a machine-made shoe doesn’t make it artisanal. Real quality shows in the details, not the slogans.
If they say ‘handmade’ or ‘handcrafted’ directly on the shoe, it is nearly a 100% giveaway that they are, in fact, not handmade at all.
4. Fake Heritage Claims
Some brands claim to be over 100 years old—even if they launched last year. “Since 1842” sounds impressive, but if there’s no real lineage or proof, it’s is just another classic sign of a low-quality shoe brand. Age doesn’t equal quality. Focus on build and design, not made-up histories.
5. Poor Fit and Lack of Shape
Cheap shoes often feel like boxes—they don’t hug your feet because they’re built on generic lasts to fit everyone (and no one well). Great shoes made by premium shoemakers contour to your feet, offering support and style. If your shoes feel like bricks or look like blobs, you’re looking at a telltale sign of low-quality footwear.
Closing Thoughts on Low-Quality Shoes
You don’t need to spend a fortune to get great shoes—but you do need to know what to look for. Avoid brands that hide behind buzzwords, fake heritage, and poor design. Invest in craftsmanship, not hype. Your feet (and wallet) will thank you.
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—Justin FitzPatrick, The Shoe Snob
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