When it comes to leather shoes, details matter—and that includes the laces. Flat and round shoelaces not only look different, but they also serve different purposes depending on the shoe style, material, and even how the laces tie and stay put. In this guide, we’ll break down the pros and cons of flat vs round laces, helping you choose the right shoelaces for leather shoes. Whether you’re styling oxfords, derbies, or boots, the right laces make a difference.
Flat Shoelaces: Sleek, Modern, and Functional
Flat shoelaces are typically made from cotton (sometimes waxed) and are often found on more casual sneakers (i.e., Reebok Classics) or sleek men’s leather dress shoes. They are a favorite for many dress shoes due to their clean, low-profile look.
Pros of Flat Laces:
- Stay tied better thanks to more surface area and friction. Regardless of the knot used.
- Create a sleek look that complements slim silhouettes.
- Work well with dress shoes like Oxfords and Derbies.
- They can be ironed flat again.
Cons:
- Can twist up and lose their ‘flatness.’
- Less traditional on certain types of heritage-style boots and heavy brogue shoes. I.e. Tricker’s style footwear
- Hard to find
Round Shoelaces: Classic and Versatile
Round laces are a staple in the leather footwear world, especially with boots and traditional dress shoes. They come in both thin and thick variations and are often waxed for added strength and water resistance.
Pros of Round Laces:
- Look more traditional, especially on heritage boots or brogues. Very British
- Available in waxed styles for durability and a dressier finish.
- Strong and durable, especially in thicker versions.
Cons:
- Can come untied more easily (especially non-waxed versions).
- May look too bulky on sleeker dress shoes.
- More prone to breaking when there are speed hooks on your boots
Matching Shoelaces to Your Leather Shoes
Here’s a quick cheat sheet for pairing your shoelaces to common leather footwear styles:
| Shoe Style | Recommended Laces |
|---|---|
| Oxford | Flat waxed |
| Derby | Flat or round (personal taste) |
| Brogues | Flat for sleek brogues, round for heavy brogues |
| Oxford Boots | Flat waxed. |
| Chukka Boots | Flat for leather chukkas, round for suede/casual styles |
| Work Boots | Thick round for durability |
| Modern Sneakers (leather) | Flat for a clean aesthetic, round for a casual aesthetic |
Other Things to Consider
- Material: Waxed laces are great for dress shoes. Cotton is soft but may fray faster. Synthetic blends add durability.
- Length: Make sure to match the lace length to the number of eyelets. Too long, and they look sloppy; too short, and they’re hard to tie.
- Color: Stick with matching or complementary tones for a classic look, or go for contrast if you’re aiming for a modern twist.
So, Which Should You Choose?
Ultimately, the best shoelaces for leather shoes come down to your style, purpose, and the specific shoe. If you’re going for a clean, contemporary look, flat laces are your friend. For something traditional, or rugged, round laces—especially waxed ones—are often the better fit. I personally prefer flat shoelaces for nearly all of my shoes. Rugged Boots depend on the look I am going for.
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—Justin FitzPatrick, The Shoe Snob