© Jessie Shaw
Whether you are preparing for a tropical beach vacation or simply looking for a smoother, longer-lasting hair removal solution for your everyday life, waxing is a game-changer. You can ask a random person on the street and make sure yourself!
However, if you are a waxing beginner, there are a few things you need to know before starting bikini waxing! What is the difference between a standard bikini wax and a Brazilian? How much will it hurt? What exactly are you supposed to do to prepare? This comprehensive, all-in-one bikini waxing guide will demystify the process, break down the salon menu, and give you the ultimate tips for flawless prep and aftercare.
Bikini Wax: Which One Is for You?
The most confusing part of booking your first appointment is often the terminology. Salons generally offer three main tiers of bikini waxing. Here is exactly what each one entails:
- 1. The Standard Bikini Line Wax
This is the most conservative and beginner-friendly option. A standard bikini wax removes hair strictly from the sides (the panty line) and across the top. If you were to put on a standard bikini bottom, any hair that would normally peek out is removed.
Best for: First-timers, those with low pain tolerance, or anyone just looking for a quick cleanup before a pool day.
- 2. The Full Bikini (or Extended Bikini) Wax
The full bikini goes a step further. It takes the sides deeper in and the top further down. You have the option to leave a neatly groomed triangle, a landing strip, or a square of hair on the front. However, unlike the Brazilian, a full bikini wax does not include the removal of hair from the backside (the gluteal cleft) or the labia.
Best for: Those who want to wear high-cut, cheeky swimwear or lingerie but aren’t quite ready to go completely bare.
The famous (and sometimes infamous) Brazilian wax leaves nothing behind. It involves the complete removal of hair from the front, the sides, the labia, and the backside. You can opt to leave a tiny strip or triangle on the very front if you prefer, but the rest of the area will be completely smooth.
Best for: Those who want a totally bare, smooth-to-the-touch feeling and maximum freedom in any style of clothing or swimwear.
Pre-Wax Prep: Setting Yourself Up for Success
- Let It Grow (But Not Too Long)
This is the hardest rule for chronic razor shavers to follow, but it is non-negotiable: your hair must be at least 1/4 of an inch long (about the size of a grain of rice). If the hair is too short, the wax has nothing to grip. If it is too long (over half an inch), the process will be unnecessarily painful, and the esthetician may have to trim it before starting. Aim for 3 to 4 weeks of growth after your last shave or wax.
- Exfoliate to Free Trapped Hairs
Twenty-four to forty-eight hours before your appointment, gently exfoliate the area you plan to have waxed. Use a mild body scrub or an exfoliating glove. This removes dead skin cells that could block the wax from adhering to the base of the hair and helps lift any trapped hairs resting just below the skin’s surface. Do not exfoliate on the actual day of the appointment, as this can leave the skin too sensitive.
- Skip the Acid-based Exfoliants
Dermatologist Andrea Suarez, in her video “Don’t Make These Waxing Mistakes,” suggests skipping your favorite glycolic, lactic, or mandelic exfoliant a week before waxing. So, if you use any products containing these ingredients (for hyperpigmentation, for example), it is best to hold off on waxing or stop using them for a short time.
- Hydrate, But Skip the Lotions
Drink plenty of water leading up to your appointment. Hydrated skin plumps up the hair follicles, allowing the hair to slide out much easier. However, on the day of your wax, arrive with completely clean, dry skin. Do not apply body lotions, oils, or creams to the area, as these create a barrier that prevents the wax from sticking properly to the hair.
What to Expect During the Appointment
When you arrive at the salon, your esthetician will lead you to a private room and instruct you on what to remove. For bikini and Brazilian waxes, you will typically be provided with a disposable cleansing wipe to freshen up.
The esthetician will cleanse the skin and apply a light dusting of powder or pre-wax oil to protect the skin barrier. For sensitive areas like the bikini line, professionals almost exclusively use hard wax. Hard wax goes on warm and thick, shrink-wrapping around the hair as it cools and hardens. Because it adheres only to the hair and not the skin, it is much gentler than traditional soft wax (the kind that requires a paper or cloth strip).
Remember to breathe. A good esthetician will guide your breathing—instructing you to inhale as the wax is applied and exhale sharply as it is pulled. The pull is incredibly fast, and the esthetician will immediately apply pressure to the area with their hand, which instantly soothes the nerve endings and stops the sting.
A Rule of Four No’s in the First 24 to 48 Hours
Your hair follicles are essentially tiny open wounds in your skin immediately after a wax. They are highly susceptible to bacteria and irritation, so you need to take special care of your skin barrier. So, here is the so-called rule of four no’s, as I like to call it!
No Friction: Wear loose, breathable cotton clothing. Avoid tight leggings or restrictive underwear.
No Heat or Water Submersion: Avoid hot showers, saunas, steam rooms, pools, hot tubs, and the ocean. Wash with lukewarm water only.
No Sweat: Skip the intense gym session or spin class. Sweat carries bacteria that can easily enter the open follicles and cause painful breakouts.
No Intimacy: If you received a bikini or Brazilian wax, it is recommended to abstain from intimate contact for at least 24 hours to prevent friction and bacteria transfer.
Once the 48-hour healing window has passed, it is time to go on the offensive against ingrown hairs.
Moisturize Daily: Keep skin supple by applying a fragrance-free, lightweight lotion or oil daily. Soft skin allows new hair to push through without curling back under the skin. Avoid heavily scented products, as they can irritate sensitive skin.
Concluding…
The most important thing to know about waxing is that it gets easier every single time. Everyone I know says that after a few sessions of regular waxing (the area of the body doesn’t matter here!) the skin gets used to the pulling sensation and becomes less sensitive.